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Fordomatic (Cruisomatic) Parts for Sale I can get 100's of additional parts for these transmissions that I don't yet have listed. E-mail me with a list of other parts you may need for these. If I have them (or can get them) I will list them for you. ATTENTION International Customers If you want parts shipped to International addresses you must fill out the International Shipping Cost Request form INSTEAD of clicking on "Add to Cart" so I can quote International Shipping Rates I will
combine shipping if
you order more than one item. Parts to be shipped from Belleville, MI AFTER received from supplier(s) (which can take a week or more)
Click on category below to jump to that section of this page Overhaul Kits/Rebuild Kits
Overhaul Kits/Rebuild Kits (4)
Clutches Bands Filters Vacuum Modulator Cases & Related Parts Return to top of page
Pans/Dipsticks/Filler Tubes Pumps and Related Parts Valve Bodies/Governor Pressure Regulators Servos and Related Parts Gears Drums and Related Parts Other Hard Parts If you are not sure which size case you have go to HERE Washers
Bushings/Sleeves
Sealing Rings Snap Rings Medal Clad Seals Seals/Gaskets To insure success when installing this pan gasket A. Clean ALL of old gasket material off.B. Peen the bolt holes i. Put the peen end of a ball peen hammer into a bolt hole on the case side of the pan rail. ii. Pound on the hammer face with a BRASS hammer until SLIGHTLY domed away from the case side of the pan rail. iii. Repeat for each bolt hole. C. Install dry (cork or composite; NEVER rubber) gasket with NO added adhesives. D. Install all bolts to finger tight. E. Tighten each bolt until the gasket just STARTS to show VERY SLIGHT deflection out from pan. F. Make sure you tighten bolts in an alternating side pattern. G. Tightening beyond this point only splits the gasket and promotes leaks. Procedure to replace manual shaft and/or kick down seal(s) Valve body AND the shift linkage must be removed to replace the manual shaft seal and/or kick done seal(s). To make that easier follow these steps: 1. After removing the pan, remove the two curved tubes that are in your way. 2. Remove the four 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body together.
(Do NOT remove the three 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body to
the case yet.) 3. Remove the four screws that hold the valve body together. 4. CAREFULLY slide the valve body section that is now loose off of the two straight tubes. (Make sure that you slide the
metal spacer plate along with it. Be VERY careful to not lose the checkball that is sometimes inside this valve body section.) 5. Now you can take out the three bolts that hold the valve body to the case and the valve body will come out. 6. You will need to remove the 1/2" nut on the end of the kick-down lever, but make sure you hold the
kick-down arm when you do this instead of torquing against inner lever. It breaks off VERY easily. 7. Remove the nut on the end of the manual lever (inside the case). When you do that, be very careful. There is a spring loaded detent
in the case. DO NOT let it shoot out. 8. Pry the old manual seal out of the case. 9. Install the new one by using a hammer and an appropriate sized socket as a driver. 10. With a small screw driver, pry the kick-down seal out of the manual arm. 11. Install new kick-down seal. 12.Reverse procedure to reassemble. Make sure the detent is riding on the detent notches. 13. Make sure the manual valve is engaged into the manual lever and that the kick-down lever arm (inside the case) is between the stop and the
kick-down valve. 14. Install the three 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body to the case and torque them to 65 inch-pounds. 15. After sliding the valve body section back onto the two tubes, make sure you start all four screws and all four bolts BEFORE you tighten any
of the eight. 16. Tighten the screws snuggly and the 7/16" head bolts to 65 inch-pounds. 17. When you are done, verify the operation of the manual lever and the kick-down lever. You should feel the detents when you move the manual lever AND you should feel the spring pressure when the kick-down lever pushes the kick-down valve. It is not as complicated as all of this sounds and using this method, you don't need to remove the servos. Speedo Gears (Drive) Manuals (1) Overhaul Kit includes: gaskets, o'rings, lip seals, sealing rings (rotating ones only), and metal clad seals (but no clutch plates). (2) You MUST E-mail me with the year (or even BETTER the model code from the tag) of your Fordomatic transmission AFTER you order (to insure the kit I send you is the one you need). (4) If you are not sure which size case you have go to HERE (5) This case has an extra hole near the bell housing to accept a shift cable in ADDITION to the hole where two levers that go through the case (6) Can be used in large case transmission, but gears are .686 tall instead of the large case's originals that were .750 tall. (The originals are almost impossible to find anymore.) PLEASE NOTE! For the 1959-60 large case transmission the pump body is a straight bolt in swap, but for the 1961-65 you must use your original pump to center the bell housing. After you tighten the bell housing to case bolts, remove the old pump and bolt the replacement pump body to the large case stator support and the reinstall pump. (7) Smooth No Pocket Style is only style currently available (This style will also replace the "Pocket" style: Do not leave anything out. Use the hub and spacer as it is. Some spacers come with an additional washer with 2 tabs; install it as it came out. The pocket is not needed. If you do NOT feel comfortable with the above method you can choose the NEW Conversion Kit that has recently been added. (8) If you have a Two speed, it takes the ball & spring. If you have a Three speed, it takes the plunger & spring. Neither of the two parts will work in the other type transmission. Make sure to E-mail me a picture of yours so I can send you the right one! You CAN adapt a two speed case to work with the three speed detent lever by using the conversion kit. (9) In mid-1956 Ford changed the mounting hole for the speedometer adapter on SOME Fordomatics from entering the extension housing in a downward slope to entering in an upward slope. The two styles are NOT interchangeable since the speedometer gear went from riding on the bottom of the output shaft to riding on the top of the output shaft. (10) This drum requires input shaft with approximately a .180" thick flange (some drums require input shaft with .220" thick flange). They are not interchangeable. (11) This drum requires input shaft with approximately a .220" thick flange (some drums require input shaft with .180" thick flange). They are not interchangeable. (12) If the Rear Drum is smooth all the way around where the band rides, it takes the thick lined band. (13) If the Rear Drum has holes in the surface around where the band rides, it takes the thin lined band. (14) This input shaft has approximately a .180" thick flange (some shafts have a .220" thick flange). They are not interchangeable. (15) This input shaft has approximately a .220" thick flange (some shafts have a .180" thick flange). They are not interchangeable. (16) Rebuildable core must arrive back to me within 30 days of your receipt of parts or core refund will be forfeited. PLEASE return pump cores. They are becoming scarce and I MAY not be able to get them in the future if I can't get the cores to my supplier to be repaired. (17) E-mail me a picture of your part AND if it has a third tube (going to the pressure regulator) so I can make sure I send you the correct version. (18) Master Rebuild Kit includes: gaskets, o'rings, lip seals, sealing rings (rotating ones only), and metal clad seals, steel (unlined) clutch plates, and friction (lined) clutch plates. (20) This was "originally" listed as a "selective", but Ford almost always used one of those "selective" sizes. You will receive the one that comes out of the transmission I get it out of. (21) Be aware that Ford USUALLY used a seal that had an additional "dust boot" as part of the seal. Those are really hard to install without a special driver AND they tend to trap moisture causing premature rear seal failure. This one does NOT have that boot on it and lasts MUCH longer) (23) Make sure you E-mail me rather the teeth are straight cut or slanted cut. (24) Rebuildable core must arrive back to me within 30 days of your receipt of parts or core refund will be forfeited. (25) Core must be shipped to me so I can ship it to my supplier. He will get it recovered and will ship it back to me. Then I will ship it to you. This will take a few weeks. My address is: Charlie Tranny, 1043 Savage Rd., Belleville, MI 48111 (26) Rebuildable band core(s) must arrive back to me within 30 days of your receipt of parts or core refund will be forfeited. No refund for broken band cores. PLEASE return band cores. They are becoming scarce and I MAY not be able to get them in the future if I can't get the cores to my supplier. (27) This is an R&R ONLY part, which means that a rebuildable core must be shipped to and received by me before I can ship your part to you, due to extreme shortage of good cores. My address is: Charlie Tranny, 1043 Savage Rd., Belleville, MI 48111 (28) You MUST E-mail me a picture of the parts you need. Ford used at least three different designs and yours MAY differ from the parts in the picture I have linked. (29) You MUST E-mail me a picture of the part you need as well as any casting numbers on the aluminum housing assembly to make sure I send you the correct part. (30) These kits are made to fit all Large Case cast iron case automatic transmissions used in Ford, Mercury, Edsel and Lincoln from 1958-1965. This includes the PBE & PBB code units from 1958-1960 and the PCA units from 1961-1965. (31) These are custom machined to order. It can take 2-3 weeks for me to receive the part(s). I need to know a couple of things about your transmission. First the tooth count of your DRIVEN gear. Second is if the entire gear is plastic (including the shaft that goes through the carrier housing) or does it have a steel shaft that goes through the carrier housing. Third, is it a Right Hand Slant or a Left Hand slant. I need to know what year and vehicle the transmission is out of and a picture of your old gear. Gears with steel shaft come with instructions for installing the new gear on your steel shaft. Make sure to E-mail me above information. New Old Stock (Parts that are new, but from inventory that has been on the self for years in a Transmission Shop, Dealership, or Supplier) Due to severe disruption in the supply sources for this part, you must E-mail to me to find out about price and availability of this part. Make SURE that in your email you include 1. Name of the transmission, 2. The name of the part, 3. The year of the vehicle, 4. The model of the vehicle, 5. The engine size of the vehicle, 6. Your country, Your Postal (ZIP) Code, AND Your Phone Number.(Ground Shipping Cost Request) Since Ground Transportation prices have skyrocketed and are continually changing, I can no longer put those charges into my listings. You must fill out the form that you can access HERE. After filling it out, save it to your desktop. You can then attach it to the E-mail you send to me to find out the cost for ground transportation on heavy and/or bulky items. If you need instructions on how to save the file to your computer, click HERE. You will need Acrobat Reader to access the form. If you don't have it, you can download it for free HERE. |
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