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Seals/Gaskets
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To make that easier follow these steps:

1. After removing the pan, remove the two curved tubes that are in your way.

2. Remove the four 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body together.  (Do NOT remove the three 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body to the case yet.)

3. Remove the four screws that hold the valve body together.

4. CAREFULLY slide the valve body section that is now loose off of the two straight tubes.  (Make sure that you slide the metal spacer plate along with it.  Be VERY careful to not lose the checkball that is sometimes inside this valve body section.)

5. Now you can take out the three bolts that hold the valve body to the case and the valve body will come out.

6. You will need to remove the 1/2" nut on the end of the kick-down lever, but make sure you hold the kick-down arm when you do this instead of torquing against inner lever. It breaks off VERY easily.

7. Remove the nut on the end of the manual lever (inside the case). When you do that, be very careful. There is a spring loaded detent in the case. DO NOT let it shoot out.

8. Pry the old manual seal out of the case.

9. Install the new one by using a hammer and an appropriate sized socket as a driver.

10. With a small screw driver, pry the kick-down seal out of the manual arm.

11. Install new kick-down seal.

12.Reverse procedure to reassemble. Make sure the detent is riding on the detent notches.

13. Make sure the manual valve is engaged into the manual lever and that the kick-down lever arm (inside the case) is between the stop and the kick-down valve.

14. Install the three 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body to the case and torque them to 65 inch-pounds.

15. After sliding the valve body section back onto the two tubes, make sure you start all four screws and all four bolts BEFORE you tighten any of the eight.

16. Tighten the screws snuggly and the 7/16" head bolts to 65 inch-pounds.

17. When you are done, verify the operation of the manual lever and the kick-down lever. You should feel the detents when you move the manual lever AND you should feel the spring pressure when the kick-down lever pushes the kick-down valve.

It is not as complicated as all of this sounds and using this method, you don't need to remove the servos.

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Speedo Gears (Drive)
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(8) If you have a Two speed, it takes the ball & spring.  If you have a Three speed, it takes the plunger & spring.  Neither of the two parts will work in the other type transmission. Make sure to E-mail me a picture of yours so I can send you the right one!   You CAN adapt a two speed case to work with the three speed detent lever by using the conversion kit.

(9) In mid-1956 Ford changed the mounting hole for the speedometer adapter on SOME Fordomatics from entering the extension housing in a downward slope to entering in an upward slope.  The two styles are NOT interchangeable since the speedometer gear went from riding on the bottom of the output shaft to riding on the top of the output shaft.

(10) This drum requires input shaft with approximately a .180" thick flange (some drums require input shaft with .220" thick flange).  They are not interchangeable.

(11) This drum requires input shaft with approximately a .220" thick flange (some drums require input shaft with .180" thick flange).  They are not interchangeable.

(12) If the Rear Drum is smooth all the way around where the band rides, it takes the thick lined band.

(13) If the Rear Drum has holes in the surface around where the band rides, it takes the thin lined band.

(14) This input shaft has approximately a .180" thick flange (some shafts have a .220" thick flange).  They are not interchangeable.

(15) This input shaft has approximately a .220" thick flange (some shafts have a .180" thick flange).  They are not interchangeable.

(16) Rebuildable core must arrive back to me within 30 days of your receipt of parts or core refund will be forfeited.  PLEASE return pump cores. They are becoming scarce and I MAY not be able to get them in the future if I can't get the cores to my supplier to be repaired.

(17) E-mail me a picture of your part AND if it has a third tube (going to the pressure regulator) so I can make sure I send you the correct version.

(28) You MUST E-mail me a picture of the parts you need. Ford used at least three different designs and yours MAY differ from the parts in the picture I have linked.

(29) You MUST E-mail me a picture of the part you need as well as any casting numbers on the aluminum housing assembly to make sure I send you the correct part.

(30) These kits are made to fit all Large Case cast iron case automatic transmissions used in Ford, Mercury, Edsel and Lincoln from 1958-1965. This includes the PBE & PBB code units from 1958-1960 and the PCA units from 1961-1965.

(31) These are custom machined to order.  It can take 2-3 weeks for me to receive the part(s).  I need to know a couple of things about your transmission.  First the tooth count of your DRIVEN gear.  Second is if the entire gear  is plastic (including the shaft that goes through the carrier housing) or does it have a steel shaft that goes through the carrier housing.  Third, is it a Right Hand Slant or a Left Hand slant.  I need to know what year and vehicle the transmission is out of and a picture of your old gear.  Gears with steel shaft come with instructions for installing the new gear on your steel shaft.  Make sure to E-mail me above information.