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Borg-Warner T8/11/12 Parts ATTENTION International Customers I will no longer ship parts Internationally via the Postal Service. I have had WAY to many problems with VERY long delivery times. If you want parts shipped to International addresses you must fill out the International Shipping Cost Request form so I can quote FedEx or DHL rates INSTEAD of clicking on "Add to Cart". Parts to be shipped from Belleville, MI AFTER received from supplier(s) (which can take a week or more) I will combine shipping if you order more than one item. Currently shipments can take MUCH longer than normal due to delays within the shipping carriers networks. Click on category below to jump to that section of this page
Overhaul/Rebuild Kits For International Shipping Rates click here Bands Filter Modulator Seals/Gaskets To insure success when installing this pan gasket A. Clean ALL of old gasket material off.B. Peen the bolt holes i. Put the peen end of a ball peen hammer into a bolt hole on the case side of the pan rail. ii. Pound on the hammer face with a BRASS hammer until SLIGHTLY domed away from the case side of the pan rail. iii. Repeat for each bolt hole. C. Install dry (cork composite; NEVER rubber) gasket with NO added adhesives. D. Install all bolts to finger tight. E. Tighten each bolt until the gasket just STARTS to show VERY SLIGHT deflection out from pan. F. Make sure you tighten bolts in an alternating side pattern. G. Tightening beyond this point only splits the gasket and promotes leaks. Procedure to replace manual shaft and/or kick down seal(s) Valve body AND the shift linkage must be removed to replace the manual shaft seal and/or kick done seal(s). To make that easier follow these steps: 1. After removing the pan, remove the two curved tubes that are in your way. 2. Remove the four 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body together.
(Do NOT remove the three 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body to
the case yet.) 3. Remove the four screws that hold the valve body together. 4. CAREFULLY slide the valve body section that is now loose off of the two straight tubes. (Make sure that you slide the
metal spacer plate along with it. Be VERY careful to not lose the checkball that is sometimes inside this valve body section.) 5. Now you can take out the three bolts that hold the valve body to the case and the valve body will come out. 6. You will need to remove the 1/2" nut on the end of the kick-down lever, but make sure you hold the
kick-down arm when you do this instead of torquing against inner lever. It breaks off VERY easily. 7. Remove the nut on the end of the manual lever (inside the case). When you do that, be very careful. There is a spring loaded detent
in the case. DO NOT let it shoot out. 8. Pry the old manual seal out of the case. 9. Install the new one by using a hammer and an appropriate sized socket as a driver. 10. With a small screw driver, pry the kick-down seal out of the manual arm. 11. Install new kick-down seal. 12.Reverse procedure to reassemble. Make sure the detent is riding on the detent notches. 13. Make sure the manual valve is engaged into the manual lever and that the kick-down lever arm (inside the case) is between the stop and the
kick-down valve. 14. Install the three 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body to the case and torque them to 65 inch-pounds. 15. After sliding the valve body section back onto the two tubes, make sure you start all four screws and all four bolts BEFORE you tighten any
of the eight. 16. Tighten the screws snuggly and the 7/16" head bolts to 65 inch-pounds. 17. When you are done, verify the operation of the manual lever and the kick-down lever. You should feel the detents when you move the manual lever AND you should feel the spring pressure when the kick-down lever pushes the kick-down valve. It is not as complicated as all of this sounds and using this method, you don't need to remove the servos. Bushings
Sealing Rings Pan Pumps and Related Parts Valve Bodies & Pressure Regulators Gears Servos Other Hard Parts Manuals (1) Requires a total of 4-5 depending on model. Use various thicknesses to get correct clutch clearance (2) Requires a total of 3, 4, or 5 depending on model. (3) If the Rear Drum is smooth all the way around were the band rides, it takes the thick lined band. (4) If the Rear Drum has holes in the surface around were the band rides, it takes the thin lined band. (5) R&R ONLY Rebuildable core must be shipped to me before my supplier will ship me your part. My address is: Charlie Tranny, 1043 Savage Rd., Belleville, MI 48111 (6) Rebuildable core(s) must arrive back to me within 30 days of your receipt of parts or core refund will be forfeited. No refund for unrebuildable cores. PLEASE return cores. They are becoming scarce and I MAY not be able to get them in the future if I can't get the cores to my supplier. (7) E-mail me a picture of your part(s) showing any casting numbers so I can make sure I send you the correct version. (8) To ID if yours is a Model 11 or 12. Model 11 has a modulator with an electrical wire coming off of it. Model 12 has a completely flat filter. (9) You MUST E-mail me a picture of the part you need as well as any casting numbers on the aluminum housing assembly to make sure I send you the correct part. (10) Overhaul kit includes: gaskets, o'rings, lip seals, sealing rings (rotating ones only), metal clad seals, but NO clutches. (11) Master Rebuild kit includes: gaskets, o'rings, lip seals, sealing rings (rotating ones only), metal clad seals, friction (lined) clutches, and steel (unlined) clutches. New Old Stock (Parts that are new, but from inventory that has been on the self for years in a Transmission Shop, Dealership, or Supplier) Due to severe disruption in the supply sources for this part, you must E-mail to me to find out about price and availability of this part. Make SURE that in your email you include 1. Name of the transmission, 2. The name of the part, 3. The year of the vehicle, 4. The model of the vehicle, 5. The engine size of the vehicle, 6. Your country, Your Postal (ZIP) Code, AND Phone Number.
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