Fordomatic Parts for Sale
Parts to be shipped from Belleville, MI AFTER received from supplier in California (which can take a week or more)
I will combine shipping if you order more than one item.
I can get 100's of additional parts for these transmissions that I don't yet have listed. E-mail me with a list of other parts you may need for these. If can get them I will list them for you.
Please include your ZIP Code (or address if for International shipments) so that I can quote shipping charges
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Overhaul Kits/Rebuild Kits
All of the above clutch plates
can be used in the small or medium case transmissions (EXCEPT those noted as being Large Case only). Also, please note that ALL lined clutch plates have modern friction faces (unless otherwise noted) to insure compatibility with currently available transmission fluids (type F is recommended). It MAY be necessary to adjust clutch clearances due to frictions that are not exactly the same exact thickness as the original brass ones. It is also recommended that you use modern flat unlined rear clutch plates (those offered above) instead of previous dished ones which are no longer available.
Park Pawl Retaining Clip (#1 in picture) sent to anywhere in the lower 48 U.S.A. states via First Class MailŪ (8.00+8.75 shipping and handling) Used 1958-60 Fordomatic Large Case Park Pawl Retaining Clip (#1 in picture) sent to anywhere in the lower 48 U.S.A. states via First Class MailŪ (8.00+8.75 shipping and handling) Bowl) sent to anywhere in the lower 48 U.S.A. states via ground transportation (200.00+52.00 shipping and handling)
B. Peen the bolt holes
i. Put the peen end of a ball peen hammer into a bolt hole on the case side of the pan rail.
ii. Pound on the hammer face with a BRASS hammer until SLIGHTLY domed away from the case side of the pan rail.
iii. Repeat for each bolt hole.
C. Install dry gasket with NO added adhesives.
D. Install all bolts to finger tight.
E. Tighten bolts until the gasket just STARTS to show VERY SLIGHT deflection out from pan.
F. Make sure you tighten bolts in an alternating side pattern.
G. Tightening beyond this point only splits the gasket and promotes leaks.
Valve body AND the shift linkage must be removed to replace the manual shaft seal and/or kick done seal(s).
To make that easier follow these steps:
1. After removing the pan, remove the two curved tubes that are in your way.
2. Remove the four 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body together.
(Do NOT remove the three 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body to
the case yet.)
3. Remove the four screws that hold the valve body together.
4. CAREFULLY slide the valve body section that is now loose off of the two straight tubes. (Make sure that you slide the
metal spacer plate along with it. Be VERY careful to not lose the checkball that is sometimes inside this valve body section.)
5. Now you can take out the three bolts that hold the valve body to the case and the valve body will come out.
6. You will need to remove the 1/2" nut on the end of the kick-down lever, but make sure you hold the
kick-down arm when you do this instead of torquing against inner lever. It breaks off VERY easily.
7. Remove the nut on the end of the manual lever (inside the case). When you do that, be very careful. There is a spring loaded detent
in the case. DO NOT let it shoot out.
8. Pry the old manual seal out of the case.
9. Install the new one by using a hammer and an appropriate sized socket as a driver.
10. With a small screw driver, pry the kick-down seal out of the manual arm.
11. Install new kick-down seal.
12.Reverse procedure to reassemble. Make sure the detent is riding on the detent notches.
13. Make sure the manual valve is engaged into the manual lever and that the kick-down lever arm (inside the case) is between the stop and the
14. Install the three 7/16" head bolts that hold the valve body to the case and torque them to 65 inch-pounds.
15. After sliding the valve body section back onto the two tubes, make sure you start all four screws and all four bolts BEFORE you tighten any
of the eight.
16. Tighten the screws snuggly and the 7/16" head bolts to 65 inch-pounds.
17. When you are done, verify the operation of the manual lever and the kick-down lever. You should feel the detents when you move the manual lever AND you should feel the spring pressure when the kick-down lever pushes the kick-down valve.
It is not as complicated as all of this sounds and using this method, you don't need to remove the servos.
(1) Overhaul kit includes: gaskets, o'rings, lip seals, sealing rings (rotating ones only), and metal clad seals (but no clutch plates).
(5) This case has an extra hole near the bell housing to accept a shift cable in ADDITION to the hole where two levers that go through the case
(6) Can be used in large case transmission, but gears are .686 tall instead of the large case's originals that were .750 tall. (The originals are almost impossible to find anymore.) PLEASE NOTE! For the 1959-60 large case transmission the pump body is a straight bolt in swap, but for the 1961-65 you must use your original pump to center the bell housing. After you tighten the bell housing to case bolts, remove the old pump and bolt the replacement pump body to the large case stator support and the reinstall pump.
(7) Smooth No Pocket Style is only style currently available (This style will also replace the "Pocket" style: Do not leave anything out. Use the hub and spacer as it is. Some spacers come with an additional washer with 2 tabs; install it as it came out. The pocket is not needed.
(8) If you have a Two speed, it takes the ball & spring. If you have a Three speed, it takes the plunger & spring. Nether of the two parts will work in the other type transmission. You CAN adapt a two speed case to work with the three speed detent lever by using the conversion kit.
(9) In mid-1956 Ford changed the mounting hole for the speedometer adapter on SOME Fordomatics from entering the extension housing in a downward slope to entering in an upward slope. The two styles are NOT interchangeable since the speedometer gear went from riding on the bottom of the output shaft to riding on the top of the output shaft.
(12) If the Rear Drum is smooth all the way around were the band rides, it takes the thick lined band.
(13) If the Rear Drum has holes in the surface around were the band rides, it takes the thin lined band.
(16) Rebuildable core must arrive back to me within 30 days of your receipt of parts or core refund will be forfeited. PLEASE return pump cores. They are becoming scarce and I MAY not be able to get them in the future if I can't get the cores to my supplier to be repaired.
(18) Rebuild kit includes: gaskets, o'rings, lip seals, sealing rings (rotating ones only), metal clad seals , and paper friction clutches (but no unlined clutch plates)
(20) This was "originally" listed as a "selective", but Ford almost always used one of those "selective" sizes. You will receive the one that comes out of the transmission I get it out of.
(21) Be aware that Ford USUALLY used a seal that had an additional "dust boot" as part of the seal. Those are really hard to install without a special driver AND they tend to trap moisture causing premature rear seal failure. This one does NOT have that boot on it and lasts MUCH longer)
(24) Rebuildable core must arrive back to me within 30 days of your receipt of parts or core refund will be forfeited.
(25) Core must be shipped to me so I can ship it to my supplier. He will get it recovered and will ship it back to me. Then I will ship it to you. This will take a few weeks. My address is: Charlie Tranny, 1043 Savage Rd., Belleville, MI 48111
(26) Rebuildable band core(s) must arrive back to me within 30 days of your receipt of parts or core refund will be forfeited. No refund for broken band cores. PLEASE return band cores. They are becoming scarce and I MAY not be able to get them in the future if I can't get the cores to my supplier.
(27) Core must be shipped to me before my supplier will ship me your band. My address is: Charlie Tranny, 1043 Savage Rd., Belleville, MI 48111
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